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A printed version of this paper written by Michael Tighe is available for little cost in the Mere Information Centre in the library. Proceeds of the sales go to the Friends of St Michaels Church THE
SQUARE AND THE MARKET PLACE The
Clock Tower which now dominates the Market Place stands on the site of such a
market-hall. The first documentary
evidence so far traced is from a time when it must have been long established
and is interesting in showing that although the building must have
belonged to the Duchy as part of the Manor of Mere its operation had been farmed
out to the private sector. In 1578
William Doddington, son of the then owner of Woodlands Manor, died and his
father took the responsibility of winding up his affairs.
The father seems not to have taken his duties seriously, as in December
1596 his widow finally settled the
estate and filed her accounts. These
refer to “one lease or assignment of a certain howse or chappell in Meere
called the Cross House with a chamber a shop and certain shambles to the said
annexed for forteen years to come”.
Elsewhere is a reference to the lease having had 32 years to run at the
time of William’s death, so the family would seem to have kept the operation
going. The
quoted description points to the market house having a Chapel as part of its
facilities - a not uncommon feature in pre-Reformation days.
Moreover there were also a shop and shambles, implying retail trade
including the slaughter of cattle and the sale of meat.
Nowadays we ensure that slaughter houses are kept well away from public
view, but our ancestors were far less squeamish and it was a regular thing for
the shambles [which often gave their name to a street] to be situated right in
the centre of the town. William
Doddington would probably not have been involved in the slaughter, nor indeed in
the day to day trading, but is more likely to have been the middleman who rented
out the various facilities to different traders. In
the absence of measured drawings it is difficult to say just how large the Cross
House was; it appears on the 1848 Tithe Map, property of the Duchy, square in
plan and stretching nearly half way across the space between the Angel Inn and
the corner of Manor Road. There are,
however, two XIXC. illustrations from which some reconstruction is possible.
In 1827 John Buckler, the water colour artist visited Mere at the time
that he was making pictures for Colt Hoare; his water colours of St. Michael’s
Church are well known, but there is also a similar picture by him of the Market
Cross[ii] as seen from a
standpoint on the South side roughly at the doorway of the present supermarket
[then the Angel Inn]. It shows a
rectangular two-storey building with a high gable end and with substantial
buttresses at the four corners. On
the south front there is one small window, at ground floor level, and a wide
archway which hints at the presence of a stairway behind it; there is a single
chimney stack, presumably for a first floor fireplace.
At the East End the ground floor has a pair of archways which like that
on the South side have pointed heads indicative of mediaeval origin, and at
first floor level is a triple lighted window with a highly decorative panel
above, surmounted by a diamond shaped clock face.
On the gable end is a decorative weather vane.
One has to remember that complete accuracy cannot be guaranteed and
Buckler’s painting, which indeed does take a few liberties with perspective,
must be regarded with this reservation. The
building also features in what must be one of the earliest photographs of Mere[iii]. This shows the
building much as depicted by Buckler, though the two arches at the East end are
wider with less pointed heads, and with a far narrower central pillar, and the
clock has a round face. The first
impression is that one looks through the arches and then clear through some
opening at the rear to the end of the George Inn, but sketches of 1860, one of
which could well be by William Lander all show double doors to each archway, and
it could be that notices fixed to these doors may give the effect of a clear
view through. From this one can estimate a width of the building of some 25
feet. There are drawings of the
building, some of which fairly clearly are based on this photo rather than being
from life, and another which may be by William Lander.
All this evidence fits perfectly with the concept of a ground floor
market area with a chapel above it. An attempt has been made to resolve the differences between these various
illustrations, and the accompanying drawing
by Dr.Colin Anderson must give a fairly accurate depiction of the original
“Cross House” We
also have a small sketch[iv] of the end
window seen from the inside, with a suggestion
of a window on the North face. For this we are indebted to the Dorset
poet William Barnes who, on first coming to Mere in 1823 rented the first floor
of the Cross House for the school which he established.
He continued to occupy it until 1827, when, on his marriage, he took over
Chantry House and ran the school there. His use of the Cross House is
commemorated in a slate panel on the side of the present Clock Tower.
It must be admitted that other drawings by Barnes of local subjects are
known to be of doubtful accuracy. In
1888, T.H.Baker recorded separately
from the three volumes of notes in the possession of the Church extensive
comments on changes he had seen in Mere over his 30 years there[v].
He refers to the removal of the stocks which stood
on the West side, where there was also an unsightly brick projection
housing the lock-up; neither would have appeared in any of the views we
have, which are all from the other side. A
use made of the Cross House in later years was as the venue for the infrequent
meetings of the Manorial Court. These
were purely formal occasions, needed to ratify the granting or renewal of leases
and similar dealings in the properties of the Manor, many of which until the
late XIXc were of Copyhold tenure, which involved the recording of the
transaction in the Court books as evidence of ownership.
It is noticeable that in the 1850’s and early 60’s the minutes refer
to the meeting having been opened in the Cross House, and then apparently
immediately adjourned to the George Inn. This
adjournment will not have been for refreshment, but was rather because the old
Cross House had become ruinous and unsuitable for use.
Since the early days of the Hanoverians the Manor of Mere had been
“farmed” to members of the Schutz family of courtiers;
they would not have had any particular interest in the maintenance of a
building with little or no commercial value. By 1863 the affairs of the Duchy
had been set in order by the Prince Consort, and as a result the old building
was demolished and the present rather insignificant replacement was given to the
town. Not for the first, or last,
time, Mere lost a most interesting mediaeval building without any attempt at
recording. It
seems that this market may have been short-lived, as in 1817 at a meeting at the
Ship Hotel, attended by some 41 farmers from the surrounding district, it was
agreed that a Pitched Corn Market should be held on Tuesdays, later changed to
Mondays . That regular
recorder of Mere life T.H.Baker, who was engaged in producing a study of farm
prices over the years, records good business at the market for the first two
years, but without any later reference.
Significantly the local papers while religiously reporting prices
realised at the neighbouring large markets made no reference to that at Mere,
and we can only assume that it was a short-lived affair.
However, in a talk to the Mere Church League in 1907 Baker relates having
been told by Thomas Jupe, who died in 1887 after farming most of his life at
Burton, that he recollected “sacks of corn being pitched from the old Market
House to Mr. Edmund’s chemist’s shop” [i.e. the Triangle]. The
Clock Tower can hardly lay claim to great architectural merit, or indeed to any
great utilitarian design, and we have to mourn the demolition without record of
its predecessor. However, for a time
at least it must have been regarded as of some importance, at least by the civic
leaders of the day. When the Parish
Council was established in 1894 the old Market House, then gone for 30 years,
was chosen to be the emblem on the new Common Seal, now held in the
Museum; it would appear that one of
Lander’s drawings was used in drafting the design.
One suspects the influence of T.H.Baker, by that time a stalwart member
of the Council in this choice. In
later years the new Clock Tower, now fully accepted as part of the street scene,
was to become Mere’s “logo” and it is still used as a badge representing
the town. In 2003, as part of
a scheme for the improvement of the area, the Tower was completely overhauled. As
habits changed, and with the gradual growth over the centuries of standards of
life and purchasing power, traders forsook the simple stalls around the Tower
for permanent shop-buildings, usually having their living quarters behind and
above. These shops were
naturally grouped around the original market area, and have continued
so to this day. In some cases
it has been possible to trace the story of their occupancy over the years.
The centre of Mere, however,
from 1815 to the 1950’s, came to be dominated by a phenomenon almost unique
for a small country town - the department store of Waltons’, which gradually
absorbed most of the different shops in the Market Place.
Their story is related in number 2 of these papers and is therefore not
repeated here except where further information has become available.
Similarly. as might be expected, four of the town’s Inns, two of which
survive, were within a stone’s throw of the Clock Tower;
Their history has been described in Mere Papers number 5 [pp73-96] and
only a few further facts which have since come to light are now included. South
of the Clock Tower a large frontage was taken up by the Angel Inn which finally
closed in 1969.
It has now been established that this site was originally Copyhold of the
Duchy, being advertised as such when put to auction, together with the one acre
of meadow at the rear. T.H.Baker
describes it as a long low building, running from Angel Lane to what is now
Finan’s antique shop, with a gateway in the centre giving access to the yard
and stables. The copyhold of the
whole site was owned by John Phillipps of Chadenwyck, but fell in hand on his
death in 1881, when it went to auction; the inn was then bought by Archibald
Beckett, of the Tisbury brewery, who demolished it all and rebuilt.
In spite of its original leading position amongst
its competitors, the collapse of the coaching trade mid XIXc led to a
serious contraction in trade, and Beckett only retained a small portion at the
Angel Lane end, which eventually was reduced merely to an off-licence, which
closed in the 1990’s to become the Angel Cafe.
The neighbouring portion with the yard, now an
ironmongery, became that typically late Victorian institution, a
Temperance Hotel[vi].
Various other parts found new uses, some rooms for a time becoming an
Institute and Reading Room under the auspices of the Parish Church. More
significantly, the Eastern portion,
for quite a time not rebuilt, was acquired by the local Conservative party who
built the Victoria Hall there as their contribution to the Diamond Jubilee; the
foundation stone laid by Lady Folkestone survives to tell the story.
For a long time in addition to the various functions that might have been
expected , the Hall was the venue for Mere’s first and only cinema, operated
by Mr. Charles Jeans of Salisbury Street.
The Hall eventually met the same fate as many others throughout the
country in the face of competition from more sophisticated forms of
entertainment and recreation. When
it finally closed it was acquired by Mr. David Chalke, the garage proprietor,
and was for some years a car show room. In
1990 a supermarket was opened there, later taken over by the Co-operative
movement, half a century after the closure of the town’s own Co-operative
Society’s shops in Salisbury Street.
Next
to the Victoria Hall site stands a two storey building with attic dormers, shown
in 1848 as ”House, Garden and shop”, owned and occupied by John Curtis.
Almost certainly there has been a business on the site since the early
XVIIIc when it was owned by the Hooper family who operated there as linen &
woollen drapers, mercers and grocers and who probably built the attractive
mahogany framed shop window which is still such an attractive feature of the
street scene. When a Miss
Hooper gave up the business in 1812 it was taken over by a John Curtis, whose
father had made his fortune in Fordingbridge, according to T.H.Baker[vii]. Curtis
passed it on to his nephew Lucius Curtis Matthews on whose death it was taken by
his widow, who then married George Athoe, a grocer from Pembroke.
The business thus continued until 1894, when the death of Athoe gave John
Walton the opportunity to acquire the premises for his expanding empire and
install the ironmongery side of his business there.
On the final splitting up of Waltons this shop continued as an
ironmongers, R. & M. Cockrams, though in 1990 they transferred the business
to the shop portion of the old Angel site.
At some stage the Western half of the building was separated as a private
house. The shop portion now houses
the business of Robert Finan, auctioneer and valuer specialising in antiques,
who has painstakingly refurbished the shop front. Next
to the East is Squires’ greengrocery shop,
housed in an Edwardian style gabled building, on a site which also has a history
of having housed a grocery business prior to its acquisition by
Waltons in 1940 for incorporation into their ironmongery .
In 1848 it was part of a site, Duchy of Cornwall Copyhold land, owned by
William Keeping, a farmer, with this portion occupied by Thomas Down, a grocer,
son of John Down the edge-tool maker of Edge Bridge.
Down disposed of his business to another local man, John Charlton, whose
widow was trading as a grocer there in 1891.
At some time prior to this the Copyhold had been acquired by the
neighbour Athoe, whose tenant the Charltons became.
Other records suggest that by 1881 Athoe was in financial difficulties,
and in that year he decided to sell these various properties in the Square to
the Rev Ernest Borradaile,an unbeneficed Anglican minister who lived at
Castle House and had built up a portfolio of property investments in Mere.
For some years he and his family occupied significant positions in the
society of the town. By
this time the Duchy was withdrawing from its copyhold investments such as this,
and to facilitate the sale by Athoe they sold him the freehold interest,
and in the Deed for that
transaction we have for the first time a description of the property as “two
cottages with gardens, one approx 5 perches in the occupation of Thomas James
Dore [it seems probable that this was a misreading of Down
MFT] and the other adjoining with garden, yard &c occupied by
Mrs.Charlton”. The
Charltons were joined by a Surrey family, the Applins, one of whom, Albert
Arthur, came to assist Mrs. Charlton and by 1905 he had taken over the business,
advertising as “Grocers, Drapers
& Milliners, all the latest novelties in childrens overalls and crash coats,
Ladies Silk Blouses, Boys Outfitting” &c &c”.
The business was still run from the two small cottages, and we are
fortunate to have two drawings of their original appearance, which even in 1900
must have seemed old-fashioned though typical of how the whole town had appeared
a few decades earlier. The
building finally acquired by Applin appears in both an early photograph and also
in a drawing and print by one of the Landers in 1860 as a low built thatched
house with a strange little extension bay window at ground floor level.
Around 1900 Harold Edmunds, son of the chemist, looking out of the window
of their rooms over the shop in the old Triangle building opposite drew a pen
& ink sketch of Applin’s shop which in 1910 he put in his sister’s
birthday book, with his mother Unity adding to it one of the rather naive poems
with which she regularly bombarded Mere.
Space does not permit quotation of all seven verses of “The Last
Thatched House in Mere Market Place”, but the third verse
gives the flavour. Windows
and panes are wide and high in the modern house; Cramped
and small are they in old, under roof quite close. The
new, like face, Open and Bold, no fear in the eye, The
other coy, shading the eyes retiring and shy, Yes
shy though old, not half so bold As
modern homes in the Market Place. Originally
the site had been only part of a larger plot which included both the house
immediately to the East and the cottage which is now the Post Office, but as we
have seen became separated, and around 1903 it must have become obvious that
such delightful thatched cottages were quite unsuitable for XXc business, and
Applin arranged a mortgage to enable him to demolish the old building and erect
the present one, described in 1903 as “The newly erected Dwelling House and
Shop”, and continued to trade there. By the 1920’s the Applins appear to
have dropped the drapery side of the business, advertising as well as grocery,
fruit &c “Refreshment & Tea Rooms, Confectionery and Ice Cream”.
They continued to trade there until 1940, when they sold up to Waltons,
who incorporated the shop into their ironmongery next door.
When this was finally disposed of the
shop was sold to Mr. & Mrs. Squire who had previously been running their
greengrocery business at another former Waltons shop across the road, originally
the home of Henry Hindley referred to later.s. Next
to the East is a stone built house, set back to a different building line, whose
brick quoins suggest a date around the turn of the XXc.
Now a private house, it has a door at the West end of the frontage, and a
large archway, now filled in, which must have once housed double doors to trade
premises. Originally part of
the same site as Applins, it had been split off by the 1910 valuation, when it
was owned by Mrs. M.A.Borradaile, widow of the Rev. Ernest Borradaile,
who presumably had acquired
it at the same time as the neighbouring property referred to below. In 1910 it
was shown as being occupied by Arthur Lloyd Coward, builder and decorator, whose
trade sign can be seen protruding over the pavement in a photograph of the time.
Not long after this, A.L. Coward moved to the property “Milestones”
in Castle Street, where he had his yard at the rear.
It was there that his two
sons, on returning from the 1914/18 War, set up the business which was to become
the Hill Brush Company. In 1925 Mr.
Bert Stainer, a member of a Shaftesbury family of bakers, had opened a bakery at
South View, Hazzards Hill, and in 1932 he transferred shop bakery and house to
what had been Coward’s site. The
business finally closed in 1978, but members of the family still live in the
house. Returning
to the centre of the town, almost the whole of the North side of the Market
Place was taken up eventually by the different departments of Waltons.
Starting from the West end, first was Charles Card’s original shop [now
a supermarket], and then various other small traders’ premises were acquired,
making a continuous frontage to what is now the pharmacy.
Waltons did not make unnecessary alterations to their acquisitions;
whilst the first shop was given a Victorian shop front at an early stage, the
remainder presents virtually the original frontage.
The premises next door to the supermarket, now a charity shop, were
initially Charles Card’s house and were then occupied by the Walton family
until they moved next door, when it became the Post Office, which it remained
until the 1960’s. The handsome
building next to the East, with its Venetian windows, has a particularly
interesting history, as having in the XVIIIc been the house and warehouse of
Henry Hindley, the linen merchant more fully described
in Mere Paper no 3 “Silver Threads”.
By 1848 it had been bought by John Jupe senior, the linen merchant
father-in-law of Charles Card; on the death of his daughter Judith it was taken
by the vicar as a house for a succession of his curates, and was eventually
acquired by John Walton for his private residence, with the ground floor
becoming the board room and offices of Waltons.
After the closure of Waltons
it had various uses, finally becoming a charity shop - a sad reflection of the
falling away in the prospects of independent
traders in small country towns. At
the time of writing the whole building has been acquired by Mr. Robert Finan,
whose intention is to restore it to its original state, in the same way that he
has restored the building across the street. Next
to Hindley’s former house stands a pair of large stone houses, now containing
flats and a Chinese takeaway on a site with an interesting history.
It had been owned by the Marquis of Bath’s Longleat Estate since the
time of the Dissolution; with the accompanying farm land in two closes, Lynch
Close and Hurdles, in Water Street, now long built over, it became
the only property in Mere the estate held.
The Marquis’ ancestor Sir John Thynne, had obtained from the Crown a
number of local properties which had been the endowment of Berkeley’s chantry,
and this was probably one of them, though it is equally possible that it might
have belonged to another of the various ecclesiastical bodies whose properties
Thynne obtained at the time. Some of the properties were disposed of, but this
little parcel was retained, and we learn that in 1663 the site was leased as
“The White Hart Inn”. Previously
references have been found to an early “Hart” inn in Mere, but only now can
it be confirmed as being on this site. By
1678 it was let to Richard Madox as “a ruinous messuage &c heretofore
called The Hart,” with closes called Hurdles and Lynch Close and land on
Castle Hill. In August 1764 a Messuage called the White Hart Inn was leased by
the 3rd Viscount Bath to James Harding of Mere, woollen draper at a rent of £1.18.=
pa. [viii].
This is the John Harding who
became the leading linen merchant and whose business was taken over by his
manager and neighbour Henry Hindley. He
must have closed the Inn and used the building as his home and warehouse. On his
death it passed to his niece Mrs Hicks Beach, still on lease from Longleat, and
in 1810 it had reopened as an inn under its old name, and was leased for 99
years to members of the Burfitt family; by 1848 inn and land had devolved upon
Christopher Rose, a farmer married to John Burfitt’s daughter. However,
with the end of the coaching trade the inn did not prosper and the
freehold was sold to Charles Card in 1860, who sold off the outlying land to
Charles Jupe, demolishing the Inn and building the two houses we now see on the
site. The larger of these Card retained till his death in 1875 as his private
residence. In 1877 it was let to
Richard Rodman, a schoolmaster who had been operating an “Academy” in
Bourton for some time which he transferred to Mere under the title of “Castle
Hill Academy”; in 1881 he had resident staff and 27 boarders; by 1891 this
venture seems to have disappeared, and the house was bought by Mrs. Caroline
Jupe, widow of Robert Jupe and a daughter of Charles Card.
The other house was taken for some years by E.P.Mitchell of Manor Farm,
another son-in-law of Charles Card, and a succession of tenants included Ernest
Baker, brother of the historian, and for a time Rodman occupied both houses..
Eventually both houses were bought by John Walton
and incorporated into the store, housing the men‘s outfitting
departments and others.
The Chinese takeaway is the only commercial use since that time, except
that for a short while in the early 1990’s the Eastern house was a
restaurant/private hotel under the title “Welcome House”. Next
to the East, and effectively ending the commercial sector of the Square is the
pharmacy, a tall building whose staring Gillingham brickwork fails to harmonise
with the mellow stonework of the rest of the town centre.
T.H.Baker described its predecessor as “a remarkable specimen of a XVc
shop”. It must have been demolished not long after he wrote those words; Mere
Museum has a pencil drawing, the authorship of which is unknown, though it could
well be the work of Baker’s daughter.
It depicts a small two-storey stone cottage with a steeply pitched
thatched roof and is captioned “Old House in Market Place, Mere 1885”
in Baker’s handwriting. There are
two windows to the upper floor, and beneath them a ?tiled? canopy runs the whole
width of the building, sheltering the single door and a series of ground floor
windows. Along the fascia is the
legend “Foot late Maidment, Corn Factor, Baker &c”.
This, and the old Applins premises must have been typical of the majority
of the buildings of the town centre; many of the existing stone built houses and
cottages , though now roofed in slate or tile, have steeply pitched roof
profiles indicative of original thatching. In
1848 this Duchy copyhold property appears as 1264, House, Garden and Shop, owner
James Maidment, occupier James Shepherd.
At the rear the site goes back to North Street, then known as Back Lane,
and includes as well as the building’s own narrow width land at the rear of
the three houses to the East, which have only very short gardens. It seems
likely that these houses, then owned and occupied respectively by E.F.Maidment,
John Glover and Edwin Thompson, were carved out of the main site. The
Maidments were a very old Mere family with many ramifications connected with
many other Mere lines. According to
Baker the bakery & corn business was owned by Matthew Maidment and then by
his son Edmund Ford Maidment, who died in 1867, when the business was taken over
his son-in-law, Mr. Legg, the Relieving Officer, who before long passed it on to
Henry Foot, of another local family, who appears in later directories as a
baker. Maidment’s daughter
Mary married into the Curtis family of bakers across the road.
At some time around 1900 the old building was demolished and the present
brick shop erected; for some time it was a tobacconists, barbers
confectioners &c before acquisition by Waltons, who eventually moved
their pharmacy business [previously Edmonds] from Castle Street. It remains a
pharmacy but under independent ownership. The
three houses shown on the Tithe Map on land probably once all part of the last
property remain today as small private houses, stone built with steeply pitched
roofs recalling their original thatch. In
no way do they present the appearance of a terrace, but instead have individual
roof-lines each lower than its neighbour to its West.
There is no evidence that they have ever housed any trade activities, and
they provide a distinctive break before the earlier shopping area resumes in
Salisbury Street. The building is tile roofed in a style considerably later than the main structure; this probably dates from the time when the whole roof line was raised to give a second floor, and the interior gives clear evidence of its original unity. An A-frame in the roof bears, in pencil, the date 1865 and the initials E.H. & S.M., presumably of workmen engaged in the re-roofing. Remnants of thatch survive internally indicating the original eaves level. The whole property was sold in 1862 to Charles Jupe, the silk throwster, so this dating would put the alterations into the period after the sale by the Toogoods. In 1885 Jupe’s son, Isaiah Maggs Jupe sold the property to Thomas Standerwick, son of William who had owned the Triangle. Standerwick died in 1933 still owning both houses, and in 1954 his trustees sold them to Mrs. Fanny Sims, of Sandells, Water Street. In 1944 Philip Welch was tenant of Birchlea and Mrs. Burd of the other house. In 1963 Birchlea was sold to the Hill Brush Company Limited, but the other house was retained by the Sims family who then lived there; by 1977 it is referred to as “Sportsmans Lodge”, a name presumably given it by them for some reason not now known. A feature of both of the houses was once a small cast-iron canopy over their front doors, though at present only the one on Birchlea survives. They appear clearly in a photograph c.1900, and are interesting in that they would seem to have been a common feature of late XIXc building in Mere. Another survives at “Hatherleigh” a bit farther down the Lane, and they appear on early photographs of the Manse, opposite, and of a number of houses in both Castle Street and Salisbury Street. Their presence in such numbers in the local scene may suggest a local provenance, such as the Bourton Foundry. Dark Lane, a narrow alley, continuing the alignment of Boar Street, is a reminder that until the late XVIIIc there was very little wheeled traffic in the area and as a result no call for wide roads. To connect Water Street with the town centre a narrow lane such as this was quite sufficient for foot traffic and the occasional packhorse. However, Dark Lane was never more than a short cut; there is little evidence of it having given rear or side access to properties fronting the principal streets. At this point the road bears off to the right, and becomes Pettridge Lane, crossing the Sheen Water at Edge Bridge, and then branching into Clements Lane, later Woodlands Road, and the Causeway, the road to Shaftesbury, which is the subject of another paper in this series. [i]
. T.H.Baker, Notes on the History of Mere 1897 p10 [ii]
Original in Devizes Museum, photographic reproduction in Mere Museum [iii]
Mere Museum 1979/83 [iv]
The Gentleman’s Magazine, April 1832. [v]
WSRO G23/999/1 [vi]
For further details of this, and of the White Hart, see Mere Paper
no.5, The Inns of Mere” [vii]
This information is from MS notes by Baker [5 above].
He states that these premises were the original Pitman family shop,
but this does not square with their having been Card’s predecessors across
the road. This is a problem that
may never be unravelled! See
Mere Paper no.2, “Waltons of Mere”, p8 et seq. for further information
on this and some other sites around the Square.
[viii]
The help of Dr. Kate Harris, Archivist to the Longleat Estate, is
gratefully acknowledged for this information.
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